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Tuesday, June 17, 2008

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Religion. Faith. Spirituality. These are some of the things that have never failed to fascinate me since I was young. Those who have known me long enough will know my unfaltering passion for religion, a timeless belief system that far transcends our comprehension regarding the origins of life and the world around us. Whether it's creation or evolution, resurrection or reincarnation, it's a never-ending debate.

If Penang is the microcosm of Malaysia, then naturally George Town is the microcosm of Penang. Besides Kuala Lumpur and Malacca, no where else in Malaysia if not Penang that's seen the rich confluence of religions and the traces left behind by the diverse religious communities. Buddhists, Christians, Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and even Jews have all thrived on this tiny piece of land surrounded by seas. Each of these communities not only helped Penang to prosper in its nascent years, but also enriched its cultural and social fabric to this very day.

As an architecture undergraduate, I have to say that of all architectural styles in the world, nothing impresses me more than religious architecture. I'm an ardent fan of traditional European architecture (Byzantine, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassicism), and more often than not, these architectural styles are pushed to greater heights in church buildings (think St. Peter's Basilica and Duomo di Milano). It's interesting to note that the Roman Catholic Church, being a major religious institution, was particularly instrumental in preserving and cultivating European art and architecture during Europe's Golden Age.

The state capital of Penang is itself an architectural gem in Malaysia. Besides boasting some of the most exquisite colonial-era monuments in the country, George Town is also home to a number of historic houses of worship which have continued to serve the city's faithfuls uninterruptedly for centuries.

Cathedral of the Assumption, George Town, Penang
Cathedral of the Assumption

Situated next to the Penang State Museum is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Assumption, one of Penang's earliest religious landmarks. Shortly after his arrival in Penang in the year 1786, Captain Francis Light arranged for the relocation of the 1st batch of Roman Catholics to the island from their old parish in Kuala Kedah. Many of these early Roman Catholics were descended from unions between European settlers and Siamese women. The day they set foot on Penang marked the eve of the Feast of the Assumption, which is how the cathedral got its name. Originally founded at Church Street by Father Garnault in the same year, the church was later moved to Farquhar Street in 1802. The present church building was built in 1860 by Father Manissol and started service 1 year later. In the year 1955, the church was elevated to the status of cathedral of the Diocese of Penang following a Vatican decree.

St. George's Church, George Town, Penang
St. George's Church

On the other side of the Penang State Museum lies the oldest Anglican church in Southeast Asia. Built in the year 1816 in the Georgian Palladian architectural style, you can actually see why it's one of my personal favourites among Penang's many heritage buildings. When I was there, I couldn't help myself but to whip out my camera phone to snap, snap, snap! A lovely memorial was erected right in front of the main church building to commemorate the centennial anniversary of Captain Francis Light's founding of Penang. One can spot a lil' resemblance between the church and its larger yet younger brother in Singapore, St. Andrew's Cathedral. St. George's Church was the only Penang landmark to be declared one of the 50 National Treasures of Malaysia by the Malaysian Government last year in conjunction with the country's 50th Independence Day.

Goddess of Mercy Temple (aka Kuan Yin Teng), George Town, Penang
Goddess of Mercy Temple

Also known as the Kuan Yin Teng 观音亭, this temple was built in the year 1801 by the early Chinese settlers on a piece of land granted by the British East India Company. The ornate curved-ridge rooftops were decorated with dragons, an unmistakable symbol of classical Chinese architecture. Being a typical Chinese temple, the very 1st thing that you're gonna see is the incense smoke that permeates the air and passes through every little crack and hole. I could hardly open my eyes the moment I stepped inside the temple. I mean, who's got eyes that are truly smoke-resistant?

Masjid Kapitan Keling, George Town, Penang
Masjid Kapitan Keling

Within a short walking distance of the Goddess of Mercy Temple stands the majestic Kapitan Keling Mosque, the largest and oldest historic mosque in Penang. Cauder Mohuddeen, a prominent Tamil Muslim merchant who was also the Kapitan Keling (Indian headman), founded the mosque in the year 1801 after the growing Indian Muslim community was granted an 18-acre lot by the then Lieutenant Governor of Penang, Sir George Leith. Over the years, numerous renovation and expansion works have been carried out until the German Eurasian architect, Henry Alfred Neubronner, was commissioned by the Muslim and Hindu Endowments Board to give the mosque a British Raj Moghul Revival appearance in 1910, a look that the mosque has maintained to this day. Besides the large central dome, the other significant feature of the mosque has got to be its minaret. Soaring gracefully into the clouds, the octagonal-shaped minaret is a conspicuous landmark in the historic quarter, and is easily recognized by domestic and foreign tourists alike. In comparison, however, I still think that Alor Star's very own Masjid Zahir has a more striking exterior. Of course must support my hometown lah, right? :P

Acheen Street Malay Mosque, George Town, Penang
Acheen Street Malay Mosque

Tucked away in the wonderful sounds and smells of Little India is the colourful edifice of the Sri Mariamman Temple, Penang's oldest Hindu temple. With a construction history dating back to the year 1833, the temple is an ideal place of refuge for George Town's Hindu population. The 1st time we were here, the temple gates were closed. On our 2nd trip here, we felt a lil' bit luckier to see the gates opened wide. Carvings of Hindu deities adorned the walls and altars of the temple interiors, which were quite a sight to behold. Although this temple is located in the bustling district of Little India, you'll instantly feel a moment of tranquillity once you step inside. It was probably my 1st time ever visiting a Hindu temple and I enjoyed every single bit of it. Quite an eye-opening experience, really...

Sri Mariamman Temple, George Town, Penang
Sri Mariamman Temple

Just a stone's throw away from the Sri Mariamman Temple is the blue-and-white Nagore Durgha Sheriff Shrine. Founded in the early 1800s by the Tamil Muslim traders, this shrine is dedicated to Syed Shahul Hamid, a 16th-century Indian Muslim saint whose tradition was kept alive here when his followers brought it all the way to Penang from the town of Nagore in Tamil Nadu, South India. A similar shrine can also be found down south in Singapore.

Nagore Durgha Sheriff Shrine, George Town, Penang
Nagore Durgha Sheriff Shrine

to be continued...

If you happen to miss the previous parts of my PENANG HERITAGE TRAIL travel series, do check these out...

PART I : Francis Light's footsteps: Penang's colonial legacy
PART II: An island's love affair with Great Britain


rainbow angeles said...

angelic chup!
very sleepy now...

kyh said...

5 chups!

Why so sleepy? o.O

Anonymous said...

You'll be a great writer for a travel mag.

kyh said...

3 chups!

Haha... A wonderful holiday destination would turn out to be boring if I were to tell the tale!

Chen said...

a walk down the "memory lane" again.

Interested join me for a photo shooting session in Penang?

Yinsi Yat said...

Fuyoh! those temples can ask for magnum 4 digits a not?

khengsiong said...

Never know Jews lived in Penang. I do know that Singapore's David Marshall was a Jew.

Did they leave any building? Maybe all torn down already.

kyh said...

Chen: 1 chup!

I only have a camera phone leh... No DSLR nor point-and-shoot. Moreover, I'm currently back in Alor Star. ;)

Yinsi Yat: Dunno wor... Nevermind, I'll help you ask next time! :P

khengsiong: There's a well-preserved Jewish cemetery at Jewish Road (the name of the road has been changed to Jalan Zainal Abidin, which is a very absurd move by the Government in my opinion), not far away from the KOMTAR Tower. However, many Malaysians do not know the existence of this place, not even Penangites! I've never been there before, so I'd love to visit it one day.

You can read more about Malaysian Jews here: History of the Jews in Malaysia

Anonymous said...

How interesting are your posts! And we realise your passion for the architecture!
I am always interesting about the ideas humen created to explain the world and the univer! Not only religious but philosophical too!
You have a fabulous architectural heritage!

kyh said...

Oh thank you, thank you! Architecture is a living art and knowledge. It evolves with time, people, cultures, and places! ;)

Chen said...

u should pay a visit to the Jewish cemetery in Penang. I visited that Jewish Cemetery a year ago :)

kyh said...

How I wish! By the way, I did read that entry of yours before. Thanks for giving us a peek at that relatively unknown place. ;)

GMG said...

Hi Kyh! Sorry for having taken so long to get here. Another hectic week… It's a wonderful blog with beautiful pictures and an interesting text to make us learn a lot. I'll come here often to check what's new and see the old stuff!!
Thanks also for your comments at Blogtrotter. Great pleasure to see and read you there! Hope you have a nice weekend!

kyh said...

No problem! :D

Thanks for your compliments. Yours is a fantastic read too. I love it! Keep it up... ;)

day-dreamer said...

Wah, your few days trip become few months "trip" in your blog eh? LOL.

kyh said...

It was actually a half-day trip. :P

Anonymous said...

i see religion (or the lack of) as not so much of a debate but a denial.

kyh said...

Denial of science? But they'll prove to you that science is completely compatible with religion! :D

Unknown said...

Lovely photos there! I think we have to give some credit to the British for being relatively tolerant on religions although many films depicting the era seemed to suggest otherwise.

Was about to ask about Jewish synagogues until I saw khengsiong's comment.

Love those buildings, not the religions... :)

kyh said...

Some people here may be staunch nationalists and abhor everything that has association with colonialism, I don't. In fact, without the Brits, there'll be no modern Malaysia we've all come to know and appreciate today. And hey, there'll be no modern Singapore too! The Brits helped to transform these 2 countries from slums and sleepy fishing villages into thriving international ports which greatly shaped the future of both Malaysia and Singapore.

Yeah... Love the buildings and heritage!

Anonymous said...

Those are really great shots. I absolutely love the melting pot aspect of Penang. Something for everybody.

Happy weekend!

Selba said...

Very interesting!

Penang is a must visit for me next time :)

Wow.. you are using only camera phone for those beautiful pictures? Unbelievable! What's your phone type?

khengsiong said...

May I know what camera phone you are using? Quality is quite good.

Anonymous said...

I love the picture of the temple and the incense burning. I can almost smell it... you really captured the atmosphere.

eastcoastlife said...

Of all the buildings I only saw the Indian Temple. hehe...

Must go vist the Kuan Imm Temple when i go to Penang.

kyh said...

Andie Summerkiss: Thanks... That's why I love Penang! :D

Happy weekend too!

Selba: Oh, do come here for a visit! ;)

I'm using Sony Ericsson K800i. Love it to bits! :P

khengsiong: I've stated my phone model in my reply to Selba's comment. ;)

Zhu: I love that photo too! :D

eastcoastlife: Why leh? o.O

Do come then! ;)

Selba said...

Wow.. I'm amazed with K800i, I've been using K700i but the picture quality is low, yours is so goooooddddd!!!! Lately, I was actually thinking to change my handphone to nokia :)

kyh said...

Nokia's great too! There are some models with built-in Wi-Fi... Man!

Wyn said...

Nice entry yo....=P

if u din say that ur using camera phone to snap those pictures, i really thought that you`re using those canggih phone oh...

nice pictures...=)

kyh said...

Terima kasih banyak banyak! :D

Doreen said...

Eh, I seriously think Penang tourism board should put your links in their site and pay you for such an informative posts about Penang. Hehehehe

kyh said...

I have the same thought too! Hehe...

Anonymous said...

What a lovely, readable and interesting post and with great pics too - what breath taking architecture.
This is very fascinating and quite exotic for a Norwegian. I really wanna go there one day!

kyh said...

Thanks... Penang's ready to see you here one day! ;)

Anonymous said...

I was just about to comment that the Indian temple resembled the one I saw in Singapore's Little wonder la...

kyh said...

Hehe... :D

eastcoastlife said...

In Singapore, we have a popular Kuan Imm Temple which many foreign devotees from around the region visit whenever they are here.

I just want to see how the Kuan Imm Temple looks like in Penang. :)

kyh said...

The one shown in this blog entry is the only one we visited that day. There's another famous one but I've yet to visit it. :)

oceanskies79 said...

Nice photography. I realised I had missed checking out some of these places when I was in Penang a few years ago.

kyh said...

Thanks... I guess you'd have to come back here some day soon! ;)

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In 1959 phentermine first received approval from the FDA as an appetite suppressing drug. Phentermine hydrochloride then became available in the early 1970s. It was previously sold as Fastin from King Pharmaceuticals for SmithKline Beecham, however in 1998 it was removed from the market. Medeva Pharmaceuticals sells the name brand of phentermine called Ionamin and Gate Pharmaceuticals sells it as Adipex-P. Phentermine is also currently sold as a generic. Since the drug was approved in 1959 there have been almost no clinical studies performed. The most recent study was in 1990 which combined phentermine with fenfluramine or dexfenfluramine and became known as Fen-Phen.[citation needed]
In 1997 after 24 cases of heart valve disease in Fen-Phen users, fenfluramine and dexfenfluramine were voluntarily taken off the market at the request of the FDA. Studies later proved that nearly 30% of people taking fenfluramine or dexfenfluramine had abnormal valve findings. The FDA did not ask manufacturers to remove phentermine from the market.
[url=]buy phentermine[/url] Phentermine is still available by itself in most countries, including the U.S. However, because it is similar to amphetamines, it is classified as a controlled substance in many countries (including Australia). Internationally, phentermine is a schedule IV drug under the Convention on Psychotropic Substances.[1] In the United States, it is classified as a Schedule IV controlled substance under the Controlled Substances Act.
Looking forward, Phentermine is being studied with another medication for obesity. The experimental appetite suppressant drug Qnexa is a mixture of Phentermine and Topiramate.
Phentermine, in doses clinically used, works on the hypothalamus portion of the brain to release norepinephrine, a neurotransmitter or chemical messenger that signals a fight-or-flight response, reducing hunger. Phentermine works outside the brain as well to release epinephrine or adrenaline causing fat cells to break down stored fat, but the principal basis of efficacy is hunger-reduction. At high doses, phentermine releases serotonin and dopamine as well, but such doses are never used in clinical medicine.
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